Tuesday, 28 January 2014

The ancient town of Hoi An

Hoi An‘s old quarter is a world heritage site, much of the ancient buildings dating from its heyday in the 16 and 17th century where it was a major trading post, particularly in silk (the silk route). The Chinese and Japanese were separated by the iconic covered bridge, and their assembly halls, temples and houses have been lovingly restored.
Although this part is a tourist haven, it is beautiful. The ancient town is only a small section, in a bend in the river, and as I set off to explore the architecture and history this morning I realised that it was time for a face mask!


The locals, from babies upwards, all wear thicker and personalised cotton masks, as the air is full of fumes, exhaust, incense, and now smoke-with Tet fast approaching, the more smoke the more good luck, so the road is lined with burners stoked with paper charms, sweets and offerings. I had to settle for a pharmacy bought pack, but the outside was black after only a few hours, so this has to be a necessity from now on.
The traditional wooden houses, with their open outer areas and private inner courtyards, are a delight, especially gazing down from the balconies to the street below, watching street vendors swoop on the tourists!

The intricately embellished Chinese Assembly rooms are breathtaking-see pic of me sitting looking weary by a rather fearsome dragon.

Everywhere I turn Tet is in full swing, there is a symbol of a horse in some shape or form at every corner.
I’ve attached a picture of a gorgeous and immense wood carving on display for Tet, truly spectacular but more appear every day, bigger and better!

The theme tune for this year seems to be Abba’s ‘Happy New Year’, which plays now at sunrise and sunset as well as the communist anthem. It sounds from every street corner; I will never be able to hear this song again without thinking of this trip!
As the sun was dropping this afternoon I sat with the locals enjoying a pure mango shake so thick I could not use the straw and watched a full dress rehearsal for the pageant on New Years Eve.


With vibrant stage lights plus sound at full pelt, those on stage sang their heart out. This (almost) private performance had me in tears and on my feet with the families clapping and cheering at the end!
The Tet flowers continue to sprout , there’s a temple who’s front is now full of flowers, plus the obligatory horse-one which when I first saw it had a garden with just bonsai-now a nursery garden and sculptures have appeared overnight

Paper mache sculptures lit up at night are lining the river banks in the old town. From the opposite bank, where I took this photo, it’s as if the world’s fair has arrived in Hoi An. Walking back in the dark under the stars lit by the passing colours of the Tet decorations I’m caught up in the spell of the Tet, the tingling anticipation of the New Year which fizzles in the air around.

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