Wednesday, 15 January 2014

Somewhere in Saigon

Saigon is superb; a surreal cross between Hong Kong and Bangkok with a fair amount of Mumbai thrown in for good measure!
Amazingly, so far I have not been knocked down, which is nothing sort of miracle-India traffic has nothing on this, everyone just goes wherever they want to go, around you, behind you, it’s terrifying. Scooters mount the pavement, go in and out of the stalls and even shop fronts, drivers chat as they ride along, babies and kitchen sink balanced on top. The knack, I have been advised, is simply to walk slowly and allow everything to go around you. So far so good!

My body clock is extremely awry. The fraught first flight leg to Dubai was exhausting as a very drunk chap behind me, not helped by being continually served free booze, got more and more loud and aggressive. 7 hours of hell. 
Literally dragged my aching body through Dubai airport, miles of walkways, escalators up, shuttle train down, finally coach to the next plane. The next 7 hour flight passed relatively peacefully, not least as the seat was too small to move out of with ease …arrived in Saigon Tues evening Vietnam time, god only knows when UK time but I was soooo tired - I guess that’s the price of being a cheapskate fare wise.


The hostel is basic but fine, slap bang in the middle of district 1, the backpackers area, full of street stalls, neon lights, bars and noise. Luckily my room is on the side alley rather than facing the road, and literally inches from a domestic balcony full of gorgeous roses and drying washing. The family are very friendly and curious-eyes peer over at me whenever the curtain is drawn from all corners, hands waving…

Having fallen into bed, literally, on arrival here, the sudden awakening today at the unearthly time of 6.30am (Wednesday)  by the bright dawn of sunrise (as usual, very thin curtains, oh hum) plus neighbourhood roosters/children was a bizarre introduction to my first full day in the city.
By 7am I was sitting on the rooftop terrace with Vietnamese coffee and sweet rice for breakfast. A great pick me up. It turns out Vietnamese like coffee very strong, three cups later I’d regained the ability to walk, talk and just about function.

Like a stereo typical English person abroad, I set off into the heaving masses of the city without a proper map or any clue of where or what to do. I just thought it would be a way to get my bearings, so needless to say I went completely the wrong way and found myself by a mosque in an industrial estate.
Fending off offers of motor bike taxi at every turn and taking advantage of the friendly nature of the lovely locals, I made it into the centre; about half an hours walk from where my hostel is –going the right way, that is.

The heat rose as the sun climbed the sky. By noon I’d stall shopped in the massive indoor market, drifted down side alleys and strode down maniac main highways, so sought sanctuary from the heat in an art café where I savoured my first coconut of the trip in air conditioned luxury. Yes, it cost three times as much as the stall outside, but there are times when needs must. (And it was still less than a pound)

The afternoon passed in a blur of colours, parks awash with blossom, looming shopping malls shining with neon lights, and everywhere getting ready for Tat, every shop, bank, office half way through displays bigger and better with each road.
First Vietnamese ice cream consumed, swiftly followed by a second, a green tea and spiced wassabi beans, I do love Asian food!

By sunset (before 5pm, very disconcerting) I’d admired the fantastic imposing French colonial buildings, offered alms in the cathedral, endeavoured to get to grips with the history of the revolution in the city museum, and finally sank into a riverside café to watch the evening descend as barges piled the waves alongside tourist cruises, cargo containers and floating canoes selling their wares.

Tonight the body is battered but the mind and spirit are over the jet lag and loving the atmosphere here…..Heading to bed lulled, hopefully, to sleep by motor alarms, traffic noise and flashing lights, I feel a world away from home.

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