Monday, 10 February 2014

Lazy languid Luang Prabang

This town is so laid back it’s unbelievable. Browsing the night market stalls on my way home tonight I had to wake up the vendor as I was keen to haggle for some baggy cotton pants, cool and good for mossie protection, if not exactly flattering. I got them for 40,000 kip, which is a better bet than buying more insect repellent!

Fortunately, as I now know, there is an 11.30 curfew here, so sleeping turns out to be easier than anticipated, especially as no one seems to stir again until at least 8.30am. This hotel has a lovely shady communal balcony which I made good use of today, lunchtime siesta just seems natural here.

As I type outside the funeral outside has developed another dimension. The casket which was ceremoniously carried out yesterday on a lorry escorted by monks and smartly dressed family has now been replaced by what looks like a wooden shed, brightly decorated with strings of flashing lights-rather reminiscent of Santa’s grotto. The communal television has now been replaced by a screen (did he have insurance, I wonder!) but I am now so used to the ‘noises off’ –action films are the rage-that I barely notice and the circus below is proving quite a treat.

Ok-the above has now in minutes been superseded by a band of traditional musicians escorted by monks-the drums are deafening but on the whole it’s preferable to unintelligible film dialogue, though less volume would be good-the lizards who were basking contently in the balcony lights ran for cover and two enormous locusts/crickets dropped from the wooden ceiling!

I’ve got to know the town on foot today and also got to know the local people, who are truly kind. Completely lost, a tuc tuc driver stopped to offer business but I’d seen yesterday I could walk everywhere –eventually-so politely refused. Bless him when he realised I was ‘ancient’ , he escorted me to my destination on foot, keen to give me a free ride to save my legs-I was too embarrassed to accept!

Laos even more than Vietnam treats older women and men with a reverence which now is a privilege, I adore it in place of my original indignation.

A tour of the Royal Palace was an unexpected delight-the walls of the former throne room are lined with Japanese glass mosaic murals describing tales from Laos, walls and walls of extravagant spectrums of glowing glinting colours.

Then up the many many steps to the tiny ancient wat at the top of the hill which towers over the area. I’ve attached a picture of the temple, a miniature altar in a cell on the mount.


The climb winds around Buddha’s at every turn, past the cave which holds the ‘imprint of the Buddha’s foot’ according to belief, and, rather disconcertingly in the sea of golden statues and orange clad monks going about their business in the monastery buildings lining the steps, tiger motifs, see pic-the symbol of Luang Prabang.


As the sun dropped behind the mountains, good natured crowds gathered at the rock peak. And what a show, accompanied by the monks prayer drum heralding the night.


Languidly wandering back through the night market, sipping fruit and yoghurt shake, I could not resist buying the trousers…whether I will attach a picture of me wearing them remains to be seen!!

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