Waterfalls and Bears

Today I finally got to visit the famous Kuang Si waterfalls and the bear rescue centre housed in the grounds. Totally overwhelming, far better than expected, and yes, I swam under the falls in the milky white creamy waters, another life experience chalked up!

The ride up winds through mountain valleys dotted with rice fields and market gardens. The hillside is dark green forest with splashes of purple blossom, the rocks of the high peaks tower above us on all sides.

As the bus climbs up higher and higher the temples of Luang Prabang disappear into the distance. Bullocks take shelter from the sun under trees, clusters of wooden shacks pass in the dust, each with their own school where children sit in the open air to learn.

The road to the waterfall is lined with stalls selling fruit shakes, crepes, spicy fruits and the Laos delicacy, barbecued meats with noodles or rice on the side. Sweet potato chips were fine for me, given the still fragile nature of my digestive system…

The steep trek on slippery paths and rocks to the falls was worth every step, a sudden stunning cascade dropping from the sky as high as the eye can see.

Kuang Si waterfalls

Inbetween the rushing water were still ponds suitable for swimming, impossible to resist.

Time for a swim

In I went my camera and bag guarded by an English couple who turned out to come from Lewes!! And she does zumba in Kingston, so for those who also do, please say hallo to the tanned lady recently returned from Laos (I didn’t catch her name) as they are due back in 10 days-I will no doubt see her again in Waitrose. The world is truly creepily small…..

The Asian black bear sanctuary at the bottom of the falls is a developing rescue centre for bears which have been confiscated by the Government here from being used in illegal poaching and trading; most end up in the ‘bile farms’ which is so sad. There is little land so far for the 23 bears but the charity hopes to raise money for more land and raise the profile of the plight of the bears. As you can see from the pictures, they are well cared for here and used to people again rather than terrified.

Asian Black Bears

On the way back we stopped at the ethnic minority Hmong village where toddlers wear the formal dress to encourage passers by to buy home made crafts.

 There is a high level of poverty here but also a genuine happiness. I paused to glance at the communal shower, then felt a voyeur. However, the women laughed, gestured that I should take a photo, and then gestured I should join them. I did one but not the other!

Shower time

As dark falls tonight I am typing on the communal balcony guarded by a mosquito coil given by generous backpackers and reflecting on this peaceful place still barely tainted by tourism. How long it can remain untouched like this remains unseen. It may be tough as a tourist here (alas, my sticky rice/fried tofu ‘comfort padding’ has faded away, I do wish chairs had cushions and the mattress was padded…) but it is also a joy.