My last full day here in Luang Prabang which had to be started with a banana pancake. As you can see from the photo, it’s a mission to finish, but I always succeed, though the day I decided to wash it down with mango shake rather than lemon juice and coffee was a challenge!
A morning saunter down the food market browsing; the first day here I had no idea what was what, but some packs do have English translations, so I’ve tried most things, all are fatty, salty, spicy or drenched in sugar, take your pick, either way not healthy but delicious, and my nails/hair/etc are growing so fast it’s ridiculous so the fat is obviously doing them a world of good.
I’ve sent pics of today’s lunch, fried mushroom strips, fried bamboo and crispy Mekong seaweed; the most powerful spice here is peanut so there is not an unpleasant aftertaste, I can just about kid myself I’m having a healthy diet!
There is one very famous temple here, Wat XiengThong, which is generally regarded as the most beautiful in Laos, so despite eschewing the wat round I decided I should see this one. It did warrant a viewing.
As you can see from the pics, the mosaic lined shrine walls are superb, and inside gold and silver lacquer paintings describe the holy tales. Here too were the old water channels suspended from the ceiling, lovingly reconstructed, they transport well water down to pour over the head of a Buddha, the sacred water is then captured and used to bless the faithful.
There’s also a rather moving ‘shed’ behind where disused mosaics and Buddha sculptures sit in solitude, away from the temple. ..poor things! So as well as a picture of me below on of the shrine walls, one of a silver embellished elephant with keen jewelled blue eyes which took my fancy, the last picture is of the Buddha’s no one wanted against a wall hidden in the dark, my personal ‘shrine’.
Time to try the famous Laos foot massage. Here this as, if not more, important as the full body version. The minimum is an hour; spas offer 2-3 hour treatments. It’s a version of reflexology; the therapist massages, kneads and then uses wood implements to apply specific pressure points. Then the lower leg gets a good going over, stronger than the traditional massage, my calf muscles were literally screaming for mercy. And to finish; a complimentary neck and shoulder work-out which almost knocked me out! Total price; £3.50.
I staggered out of the cool dark wooden room into the bright afternoon sunlight and fell into the nearest coffee shop. For the first time since arriving in Laos I sat in a purpose built ‘tourist’ restaurant, paying double the street price for a ‘coffee shake’. But the shake was delicious and the bathroom was wonderful…worth paying the extra 70p for the drink. Normally I sit in shady riverfront cafes run by locals, and the bathroom is eastern style, often shared with the family so full of shower gel and toothbrushes, and minus sink. Here was running hot water, a mirror, wet face flannels-you have to be escorted in by the restaurant staff but I braved their bemused looks to go in twice, once before the drink and once after, just for the sheer joy of it!
The creamy milk shake did not assuage my hunger but a coconut crepe (yes, that was from a stall, I’m on a very tight budget!) hit the spot. One last sunset reverie and back to pack.
Tomorrow I head off on the bus to Vang Vieng. Up, over and out of the valley I have grown to love and on to pastures new.
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| Breakfast Banana Pancake |
A morning saunter down the food market browsing; the first day here I had no idea what was what, but some packs do have English translations, so I’ve tried most things, all are fatty, salty, spicy or drenched in sugar, take your pick, either way not healthy but delicious, and my nails/hair/etc are growing so fast it’s ridiculous so the fat is obviously doing them a world of good.
I’ve sent pics of today’s lunch, fried mushroom strips, fried bamboo and crispy Mekong seaweed; the most powerful spice here is peanut so there is not an unpleasant aftertaste, I can just about kid myself I’m having a healthy diet!
There is one very famous temple here, Wat XiengThong, which is generally regarded as the most beautiful in Laos, so despite eschewing the wat round I decided I should see this one. It did warrant a viewing.
As you can see from the pics, the mosaic lined shrine walls are superb, and inside gold and silver lacquer paintings describe the holy tales. Here too were the old water channels suspended from the ceiling, lovingly reconstructed, they transport well water down to pour over the head of a Buddha, the sacred water is then captured and used to bless the faithful.
There’s also a rather moving ‘shed’ behind where disused mosaics and Buddha sculptures sit in solitude, away from the temple. ..poor things! So as well as a picture of me below on of the shrine walls, one of a silver embellished elephant with keen jewelled blue eyes which took my fancy, the last picture is of the Buddha’s no one wanted against a wall hidden in the dark, my personal ‘shrine’.
Time to try the famous Laos foot massage. Here this as, if not more, important as the full body version. The minimum is an hour; spas offer 2-3 hour treatments. It’s a version of reflexology; the therapist massages, kneads and then uses wood implements to apply specific pressure points. Then the lower leg gets a good going over, stronger than the traditional massage, my calf muscles were literally screaming for mercy. And to finish; a complimentary neck and shoulder work-out which almost knocked me out! Total price; £3.50.
I staggered out of the cool dark wooden room into the bright afternoon sunlight and fell into the nearest coffee shop. For the first time since arriving in Laos I sat in a purpose built ‘tourist’ restaurant, paying double the street price for a ‘coffee shake’. But the shake was delicious and the bathroom was wonderful…worth paying the extra 70p for the drink. Normally I sit in shady riverfront cafes run by locals, and the bathroom is eastern style, often shared with the family so full of shower gel and toothbrushes, and minus sink. Here was running hot water, a mirror, wet face flannels-you have to be escorted in by the restaurant staff but I braved their bemused looks to go in twice, once before the drink and once after, just for the sheer joy of it!
The creamy milk shake did not assuage my hunger but a coconut crepe (yes, that was from a stall, I’m on a very tight budget!) hit the spot. One last sunset reverie and back to pack.
Tomorrow I head off on the bus to Vang Vieng. Up, over and out of the valley I have grown to love and on to pastures new.
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