This is the most beautiful place. Like Chang Mai in Thailand without the crowds, like the Gili Islands in Lombok but in a town. The mountains which surround the town, nestled in a wide bend in the mighty Mekong, reflect the sunshine on every colour from the gold temple splendour to the bright flower filled streets, a deep hue shimmers in the heat.
Despite the ‘wake’ –apparently as mark of respect everyone gathers for three days in the house of the deceased to keep the soul company, I could see the coffin at the rear of the open house front whilst the party goers watched television-I slept like a log (or maybe because of the ‘company’, who knows!). Awaking refreshed to a breakfast of a banana pancake the size of which I have never seen the like, a fluffy tribute to a dinner plate, plus mango shake and Laos coffee which is thankfully not as bitter as Vietnamese, my normal equilibrium was restored.
In keeping with my normal instincts, I eschewed the wat (temple) tour (32 in not many square kilometres, every other person here is an orange clad Buddhist monk) and borrowed a rickety bicycle to explore. Wide streets, friendly smiles and the wonderful colours of the riverbank, fresh air from the mountains despite the 30 plus degree heat, a fabulous contrast to Hanoi’s city chaos.
As pics show, the river is the lifeblood of the town, everyone from monks to villagers wash/bath here, it is criss crossed with bamboo bridges to temples towering up the hillside, lined with both tourist restaurants and local haunts-I enjoyed a superb mango shake for the grand total of 6,000 kip: (50,000 is about £3.75, so not very much)-its soo cheap here.
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| Monks in the River |
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| Bridges everywhere |
The evening sunset was best summed up by the words of a fellow traveller, who as the sun finally disappeared behind the peaks, turned to me and said ‘what a show’. Monks, tourists and residents alike watch in silence as the golden orb slips down and a scarlet haze descends over us. Long narrow boats laden with locals carrying their wares chug across the slow moving waters, fishermen wade into the darkening seas to pull up nets.
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| Sunset over the River |
As night falls the main thoroughfare becomes a gentle paced market. Wandering through in peace with no pressure to buy is a sheer pleasure. Any and everything can be found here; so cheaply it will be hard not to spend money, only the limited space and weight in my rucksack prevents, which is a shame!
Supper was a delicious vegetarian buffet for 10,000 kip. I like this place!!
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