Cambodia has beautiful beaches! And I’m on one, in a bamboo ‘bungalow’ on stilts in a peaceful spot, the very end of Otres 1 beach in Sihanoukville. This lovely place is a collection of 7 huts set in a garden a few metres from the beach, away from the ‘party’ areas. The quiet is disconcerting-no television, no air conditioning, cold-and brown-water, I am sharing my living quarters with wildlife from lizards to ants but so far we’ve been amicable partners…I’m wrapped into my mosquito net more to avoid being dive-bombed by bats/frogs than mossies, eyes glint down at me as I type, I’m not making eye contact!
My Angkor Air flight-an extravagance but it saved me two days on a bus-not only turned up in Siem Reap, a minor miracle as they are notoriously unreliable- but went on time. There are only a few flights a week here and I was prepared to be stranded in Angkor chasing a bus ticket, but to mine and everyone else’s surprise, the usual tiny propeller plane lifted off and within an hour dropped us down again in deepest Southern Cambodia.
The shuttle bus to the town also appeared-another miracle-and then a tuk tuk knew where I wanted to go, as Otres beach is another 5 kms outside the town itself. A fortunate choice as what little I saw of downtown Sihanoukville reminded me of a Cambodian Margate, originally a fishing village now a large dock and tourist haunt, I was relieved when my tuk tuk drove out of the heaving masses and into the countryside, depositing me in the middle of nowhere bar a few hostels like this one (‘Don’t Tell Mama’) and beach cafes.
It was pitch dark as I arrived. I sat outside on my veranda with a cold beer provided by the friendly German couple who run this, stared up at the moon, and realised I could hear absolutely nothing. The odd dog barking, geckos otherwise total total silence. I am always amazed at how odd this feels.
Today I rose with sun as normal and set off along the deserted beach in bare feet and shorts. It feels so liberating to be free of the usual Cambodian dress code of shoulder/knee coverings. Otres 2, a 30 minute walk away, has a collection of beach cafes where I greedily consumed a pancake with honey/coffee/fruit shake. ..
As the pics show, I am relishing the freedom of the beach-the water is warm! Truly warm! Shallow, calm, a pleasure to float around in (best to ignore the rubbish, this is Cambodia after all!). A sunbed for the price of a sprite (a dollar) comes with a shady umbrella and free hassle from beach vendors/masseurs/beggars thrown in!
There is a welcome breeze here after the stifling heat of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. I walked for hours in the late afternoon watching the setting sun, ambling along the beach, chatting idly to other strollers –there are few people here bar the ‘party’ backpackers haunt at the furthest end to my ‘pad’ so a carnival holiday atmosphere prevails.
I intend to do very little for the next few days bar swim, sleep, sunbathe, eat, drink and be merry!
My Angkor Air flight-an extravagance but it saved me two days on a bus-not only turned up in Siem Reap, a minor miracle as they are notoriously unreliable- but went on time. There are only a few flights a week here and I was prepared to be stranded in Angkor chasing a bus ticket, but to mine and everyone else’s surprise, the usual tiny propeller plane lifted off and within an hour dropped us down again in deepest Southern Cambodia.
The shuttle bus to the town also appeared-another miracle-and then a tuk tuk knew where I wanted to go, as Otres beach is another 5 kms outside the town itself. A fortunate choice as what little I saw of downtown Sihanoukville reminded me of a Cambodian Margate, originally a fishing village now a large dock and tourist haunt, I was relieved when my tuk tuk drove out of the heaving masses and into the countryside, depositing me in the middle of nowhere bar a few hostels like this one (‘Don’t Tell Mama’) and beach cafes.
It was pitch dark as I arrived. I sat outside on my veranda with a cold beer provided by the friendly German couple who run this, stared up at the moon, and realised I could hear absolutely nothing. The odd dog barking, geckos otherwise total total silence. I am always amazed at how odd this feels.
Today I rose with sun as normal and set off along the deserted beach in bare feet and shorts. It feels so liberating to be free of the usual Cambodian dress code of shoulder/knee coverings. Otres 2, a 30 minute walk away, has a collection of beach cafes where I greedily consumed a pancake with honey/coffee/fruit shake. ..
As the pics show, I am relishing the freedom of the beach-the water is warm! Truly warm! Shallow, calm, a pleasure to float around in (best to ignore the rubbish, this is Cambodia after all!). A sunbed for the price of a sprite (a dollar) comes with a shady umbrella and free hassle from beach vendors/masseurs/beggars thrown in!
There is a welcome breeze here after the stifling heat of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. I walked for hours in the late afternoon watching the setting sun, ambling along the beach, chatting idly to other strollers –there are few people here bar the ‘party’ backpackers haunt at the furthest end to my ‘pad’ so a carnival holiday atmosphere prevails.
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